Monday, January 28, 2013

Charmed.


Two Wines. Two Countries. Two Alluring Reds.

Domaine d'Andézon 2011, Côtes du Rhône, France 
This is absolutely delicious -  a gorgeously rich Syrah, with 10% Grenache, from Importer Eric Soloman in partnership with winemaker Jean-François Nicq of Vignerons d’Estézargues. The wine is made from old vine Syrah grapes from one of the vineyard's best parcels - Andézon. Apparently, in the past, the grapes were previously sold in bulk to a famous producer in the Rhône Valley. Solomon seized the opportunity to create a customer cuvée. Thank you Eric. And Jean-François. This is a handsome, extremely charismatic Rhône Valley Syrah, soley tank fermented, with layers of flavor of dark berry fruit, touches of spice, a hint of smoke and bacon fat, and a seductive finish. Quite the French find at around $15! Go, search, wrap yourself around this one. 












Creta Roble 2009, Ribera del Duero, Spain

There seem to be so many Tempranillos available on the market today. That's a good thing I suppose, though many seem to just not sing. This one, Creta Roble, on the other hand, has a mini choir going on. It is also an Eric Solomon collaboration, this time with winemaker Eric Fernandez. Together they have produced a 100% Tempranillo from the 70 year-old Pago de Cabarroso vineyard known for its impressive chalk (known as "creta") content. Chalk, significant here, is found in some of the best vineyards of the Ribera del Duero. Spain's Ribera del Duero wine region is a rising star and if you haven't had a wine from the region, start here. This Tempranillo is aged in recycled French and American oak barrels. At around $16, with a Wine Advocate score of 90+ points and notes describing "brooding bouquet of pencil shavings, espresso, Asian spices, incense, and assorted black fruits. Structured on the palate with layers of succulent fruit, this concentrated, lengthy effort admirably reflects the strength of the superb 2009 vintage. Drink this outstanding value over the next 4-5 years", you'll be charmed by this Spaniard. 







Sunday, July 22, 2012

The Hidden Boulangerie.


Some of the best things in life are not always so obvious. And while a Boulangerie on any street is a happy find, one tucked behind a celebrated French restaurant, in Maine, is a blissful one. So are their Macarons, as I discovered.

Welcome to the 98 Provence Bakery. Made fresh daily: Baguette, Fougasse, Ciabatta, Croissants, Pain au Chocolat, Almond Brioche, Walnut Sticky Buns to list a few. And – sound the trumpets and french horns – Macarons! Beautiful, pastel, crunchy-chewy bites of pastery artistry. My vote: Pistachio, but the Hazelnut is a close second and the assorted colors make it hard to choose, so don't, get one of each I say.

There are also soups, salads and sandwiches – French Ham & Gruyere on a baguette might have you searching for a park, a bottle of Limonade and Jacques Brel strolling with an accordion. Croissant with warm Ratatouille and Chévre anyone? I might just start whistling La Mer.

And then there is whole-roasted chicken with lemon curry and thyme butter. It's a whole chicken, roasted with Chef Pierre Gignac's blend of curry butter and herbs, and it just begs for a bottle of Provencal Rosé and a farmer's table in a meadow. Don't wait to find one of those tables, just eat the roasted chicken anywhere, and hum.

Oui, s'il vous plait. And a few Macarons for dessert.

Find it: 98 Provence Bakery Boulangerie
262 Shore Road, Ogunquit, Maine 
Around back.
207 646-9898

Sunday, May 20, 2012

Chowder With a Side of Memorabilia.


The Ramp at the wharf in Cape Porpoise, Maine on a Sunday afternoon: Pete's Clam Chowder, Cabot Cheddar Burger and a side of vintage advertising, news and signage. The Ramp is the only place where I've ever seen vintage political posters sharing space with sports banners and lobsterboat views. The collection of posters is impressive – Carter/Mondale, Rockefeller, Kennedy, Muskie. Cain. Herman Cain. A poster asking for the vote for November 2012 – all on the ceiling alongside Boston Red Sox banners, a Heavyweight Championship Boxing poster from Norton's days, yesteryear metal signs of $10 ballpark fees and inauguration parking rules.

Go. Go for the drive. Go for the ocean cove view. Go for the food – the Lobster Roll is one of the best I have had, made with the freshest lobster and just the right amount mayo and scallions. You might share the first one but from then on you'll want one all to yourself. You'll feel the same about the homemade potato chips it comes with. The menu hits all the right notes: Maine Crab Cakes (served with an arugula & fennel salad), Steamed Mussels or Clams are done three ways. Chopped House Salad, Seafood Stew,  BBQ Pulled Pork sandwich. It's pub fare, taken up a notch, on a cove on the coast of Maine. On Sunday afternoons there might be a wait. So wait. And look up.

Take RT. 1 north from Ogunquit, Maine, through Wells and then a right on RT.9 to the village of Kennebunkport, to the church at the top of the rise. Make a right and then a left for the continuation of RT. 9 into Cape Porpoise. Straight ahead to Pier 77 Restaurant and its Ramp 77 below, side entrance.

Sunday, February 19, 2012

Alan Crofut Chocolates.


I recently had the delicious fortune of being introduced to chocolatier Alan Crofut, owner of Unbridled Chocolates, a small boutique chocolate shop in Marlborough, New Hampshire. Most intriguing of Crofut's creations are the dark chocolate truffles he is crafting with Ghost and Habanero peppers. And with the Fatali pepper which I have never heard of, and have yet to taste. The pepper is Crofut's favorite. His chocolate has won awards and I suspect more awards are in the future.  unbridledchocolates.com

Tuesday, February 7, 2012

Still life in boxes.


The boxes are often more beautiful than the labels.